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  1. #1

    Default LBP2 Tutorial: Microchips Step by Step [WARNING: HUGE POST]

    Psst...
    Not in the beta? Frustrated to see people do LBP2 stuff in a pic or a video and not explain it? I got somethin' for ya!

    I built a spaceship. When the player jumps in and presses triangle, the engine starts up. The player can then move with the left stick, shoot with R1, pass through good guy shots unharmed, score points for near misses from enemy shots and beams, and blows up when the ship's weak point is hit. Wanna see how it works?



    Here's what it looks like in game. (See me flying there? I have the Create Mode View set to "Preview".) The circle on the upper right of the ship is a hatch: a wobble bolt swings it down when the player gets on the Controlinator inside the cockpit (the other circle, with the engines glued to it). The red microchip on the hatch is a Weak Point (my label). The shots and beam are made of 1-fat hologram; they'll pass through anything they touch.


    Making Custom Objects "Dangerous": Same As It Ever Was


    Now we're in Create view. You can see the red magnets on the enemy shot and beam; if you squint, you'll see a glowing dot on the Controlinator. (I'm using LBP2's snapshot maker; better, but not good as of v 1.00.) Behind it, still in the cockpit, is a vertical rectangle with sparkles. This is the Main Chipset (my label). Think of the Controlinator, Main Chipset, Wobble Bolt, and Weak Point as "hardware": where they are on the ship matters. Everything else you're about to see is "software": they're hiding inside the three chips you see here. Let me just select each of them and hit R1...


    Holy Eye Strain, Batman!


    Take a second to note how much is stuffed in these three bits. The little icons glued to the chipboards are called Gadgets, and since they are mounted to microchips, their position on the chipboard does not matter; LBP2 assumes all of them share the same physical space as their parent microchip.

    Directly left of the ship is a chipboard with three other microchips on it. This is the Main Chipset from the second picture, opened up. The chips on it are, from top to bottom: Engine Startup, Score Management, and WEPS (my labels). These "sub-chips" are open, too, which is why the screen is a nightmare. The red chipboard on the upper right is the opened Weak Point; the purple board and controller is the open Controlinator assembly.

    If you run out of space to hang gadgets, you can resize the boards. While you've got the chipboards open, you can move them around to make sense of what's going where. I'm going to do that now to fit things into screenshots.


    Making It Go


    I don't have anything on the Controlinator board; I'll explain why not later. Anyway, I'm going to put the opened Engine Startup chip under the left stick, and WEPS next to R1. WEPS is simple: I pick out an emitter and a sound; I stick 'em willy nilly to the board, then I run a wire from the light cone on the right of the R1 button (hover over the cone, and it'll say "Output") to the sound effect and the emitter. When I tweak the emitter, I use the same "Capture Object" tool that was in LBP1 to select my blue holo-ball. When I place the emission point, the screen will jump back to my ship; since that's where my "hardware" is, that's where my emitter is. Finally, I don't tweak anything from the R1 button; it just sits there. I control everything about the shots from the emitter tweak menu.

    The output for the PS button is not mapped to the real PS button; instead, it's a placeholder for "someone just jumped in the chair". I wanted my ship to "chug to life", instead of just working right away. I've written myself a note so I can remember what does what. The note expands just like a chipboard.

    Anyway, my "hatch closing" bolt (not pictured) and the purple "engine startup" noise are wired straight to the "PS button" output. The "PS button" output also runs straight to four timers, which look like this:. Like most gadgets, you plug the input into the left, and pull the output cable from the white cone on the right, and plug that into the next link in your network. My timers are tipped over to the right; this lets me line the timers up in chronological order, then put each timer's effects into a vertical column underneath their "parents". The timers will fill up white (color tweakable) as long as the player's butt stays in the chair, then go off; the first one will fill at 2.4 seconds, and each of the others go off .1 second after the one before it.

    The first timer will start the "engine noise" SFX, the two middle engine lights on the back of the ship, and the gyroscope:. The Gyroscope is a weird gadget: It makes the object it's glued to stand up straight. If someone knocks over my ship getting in, the gyroscope will set it back upright. There is an arrow on top of the Gyroscope gadget that points to UP; this is how the ship knows which way to tip. DO NOT tip a gyroscope over on a board to make a wiring diagram pretty: your whole object will tip over, too! Controlinators, Rotators and basic Movers have directional arrows, too; be careful where you point those things! (This is why my Controlinator board is empty: default Controlinators make Sackboy face the screen, and my seat is glued in so Sackboy faces right. Gluing a Gyroscope or Rotator to that board would destroy space-time.)

    Next, Timer 2 turns the Anti-Gravity Machine (I won't link the png, but the icon looks like Newton's apple. My AGM is set to 100% anti-gravity and 20% dampening. This means the ship is 100% responsive to player controls; however, once the player lets go of the stick, the ship will lose 20% of its momentum every second until it stops. I want my ship to be a side-scroller, not the ship from Asteroids.

    Timer 3 turns the lights on for my two outer engines. Timer 4 turns on the "shields" (blocks Hologram over the hatch and ship), and activates the Advanced Mover , giving the player control of the ship. Each of the sticks has two outputs: a left/right and an up/down. (If you need each of the four directions to have an output, there are ways to do that.) If I wanted to be silly, I could wire the left/right for LS to the left of the Advanced Mover, and the up/down for RS to the top of the Advanced Mover: then the player would need two sticks to fly! I'm lazy, though: I'll use the left/right and up/down outputs for LS on the Advanced Mover. The Output of Timer 4 goes into the BOTTOM input. Now, the Advanced Mover won't work until the player turns the engine over.

    Well, the player can move and shoot. Now, let's give him some points, then kill him.


    The Fun Stuff


    First look at the Tag Sensors . These are just magnet switches, folks. The ones in the Weak Point have a trigger radius that's only as big as the Weak Point microchip. The radius tweaks just like the emitter: hit square, and the view jumps to the physical position of the chip. Why do the Weak Point and the Score Giver have two red sensors apiece? Because I have two different red magnets: one is labelled "Enemy Shot", and the other "Enemy Beam".

    Why have two different labels, when both of them are dangerous? Because I play a lot of Gundemonium. In Gundemonium, being hit on the Weak Point kills you, but being grazed scores points. I want beams, which are harder to avoid, to score 200 points for each second they hit a player without killing him; I want single shots to score only 100 points per graze. So I give each kind of shot a label, then make a separate sensor for each label type.

    On the Score Giver board, I tweak the radii for the Sensors to be the size of the ENTIRE SHIP. Let this sink in: There are four sensors in the exact same place, but two of them are big for misses, and two of them are small for hits.

    Each Sensor goes to a separate Score Giver Gadget . Each SGG is tweaked to different point values. The Destructor (pink skull icon) on the bottom of the bottom left board is unnecessary - but the ones on the other boards are quite effective...heh heh heh...

    On the Weak Point board (up right), I have both the "hit" Sensors running into an OR Gate Gadget . Whether they player gets too close to a shot or a beam, he's had it. The OR Gate leads to the pink skull, which blows the hatch off the ship. The OR Gate also runs right off its board, back to the pink skull on the Main Chipset, which will blow up the ship...and the player! MWA HAH HA!

    What if I built a different spaceship, but want it to work the same way? Copy the Main Chipset and Weak Point, glue them to new ship. Wire new Controlinator back up to Main Chipset inputs. Done.

    What If I wanted the engines to blow up first, then the hatch...then the player? I would throw another Microchip on the Main Chipset, name it "Destruct Sequence," and then...



    ...Well, that's it for now. I have introduced you to how Gadgets wire up and work, how Gadgets mount to Microchips, and how you use multiple microchips to control how much of a complex system you can see at once. I used an example because that's what I would have wanted to see.

    If you want to get a head start on LBP2, and you don't have the beta, start making cool-looking objects in LBP1. Use pistons, winches, and bolts only to connect things. Don't put motors, hidden pistons, or logic on anything. Instead, just make yourself flowcharts:
    R1--->SFX+SHOT
    LS--->AdvancedMover
    ShotType1 OR ShotType2--->DestructorGoesOff

    Once you get the Good Stuff, wiring stuff up will be easy.

    And now that I just explained it to you, I realized I can clean up my wiring diagrams even more... *wanders back toward PS3*

    Questions?

    Peace, y'all. -Coyote
    Last edited by coyote_blue; 10-18-2010 at 02:47 PM.


  2. #2

    Default

    Awesome write up man... sometimes text is just the way to go... i watch some of these videos and am still like "wait what?"

    my Levels: Lost Ages I, Lost Ages II, Lost Ages III, Lost Ages IV, Lost Ages V
    Failures: Assault on Cloud Castle (Beta), Roboco 1+2, Lost Ages I (Original Version), Mega City, Der Schplaterhaus
    Projects: Lost Ages VI (LBP2), Mega City Remix (LBP2)
    sig: Coxy

  3. #3
    lvl34 Wanderer coyote_blue's Avatar
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    Default

    I tell you what...that video that Mm sent out about "How powerful are microchips?" made me do this. I looked at that pic and said, "This equals zero new information."

    EDITED: Changed the description of the Advanced Mover. I redid the process from scratch, and it turns out you MUST wire both the Left/Right and Up/Down bits for the Advanced Mover to work. You can turn a Mover or Microchip On/Off, but wiring to this input is for gear-shifting purposes only.
    Last edited by coyote_blue; 10-18-2010 at 02:49 PM.

  4. #4

    Default

    Do you know how to change the cover photo of a micro chip?

    EDIT:Sorted now, and for anyone who doesn't know how, you can put stickers in the micro chip face
    Last edited by o0shda0o5; 02-24-2011 at 08:22 PM.

  5. #5
    Sack No. 10,000 Shadowriver's Avatar
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    Default

    You sticker editing tool that you use to move sticker, remove old sticker on microchip and place your own
    Tired of answering same questions from people.... answer them down on LBPWiki where everyone can see them!
    |LEVELS: TETRIS
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